Site updated
Call Poppy G. at 803 222-3090 Email: Poppy@PoodlePoppy.com
LINKS to the pages on my website are in the box directly below. Please click on any that interest you.
CARE TIPS
CARING FOR YOUR TINY POODLE
PLEASE take a couple of minutes to read all of the following information about the planning and care of your teacup/toy poodle. I'm sure you already know some of these things, so just consider that part a “refresher” course. Some of it won't apply to your situation, but there might be other things you should know and don't unless you have been a poodle breeder. Thank you!
Poppy G.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Owning a pet isn't just fun and satisfying, it's also a responsibility. If you have never owned a teacup or toy poodle before you are in for a treat! They are the finest (and most popular) pets in the world. Tiny poodles are a lot like little babies and require your steady companionship and love. They tend to be timid and are positively not outside pets. Like all pets, they do best following a reliable daily routine, and will get stressed out if left alone for hours on end.
Poodles like it warm, and I keep the young babie's room at about 80 degrees farenheit. Not less than 70 degrees unless they have a sweater on or you're holding them in a blanket. Like people, some dogs run hot, some cold. One of our toys, Ella, sleeps under the blankets, the other, Duffy, on top.
Don't be concerned about spoiling or disciplining your puppy at all until after the initial adjustment period.
PREPARING TO BRING YOUR PUPPY HOME
I hope you will carefully prepare for your new puppy's needs and will have everything ready in advance. It's like bringing a new born baby home from the hospital. Think about it's diet (I'll include some food so you don't have to make a change for a few days until they've had time to adjust) the location of their kennel (safe, secure and a pleasant sleeping area if they aren't sleeping with you,) potty set up (pee-pads- I sell them but I'll give you one with your puppy), blankets & clothing, toys, chewies, etc.
You will need a calm, quiet area for your new pet. They will be away from and missing their mommy for the first time, will be in unfamiliar surroundings, and will cry and whine until they adjust, not happy campers for a few days. YOU will be their new mommy, so they will want to be with you constantly, which is fine. Be very careful about other pets. A dog or cat that is warm and loving can turn mean to the baby. Jealousy is very common and normal.
BEDDING
Make sure there is plenty of padding in and/or under their kennel if it's on the floor because it's usually considerably cooler down there. I'll keep a heating pad on the bedding but covered by a pee-pad which is covered by a towel. MAKE SURE they can't get to the chord or any other electrical chords, for that matter. If they chew through it when you're out of the room they will receive a severe and damaging or deadly shock.
FEEDING
Over the years, domesticated dogs have become excellent at begging for their way, especially for food. And when we give them table scraps we think of it as a treat (I know I've been guilty of that!) But most tiny poodles have very sensitive digestive systems, so feeding them even the tiniest amount of table scraps can have unpleasant side effects like vomiting and diarrhea. They just don't do well with "people" food.
I believe in kibbles, not wet or canned, but never with “animal by-products” in them ever since I found out it's cow poop used as a cheap “filler.” Sadly, this allows the manufacturers to increase their profits at our pet's expense. I couldn't find a decent bag of food at Walmart. Certainly not Purina, Ol' Roys, or the like.
I feed my dogs Diamond brand lamb & rice kibbles, but read the label on whatever you buy to be sure there are no fillers, by-products, etc. Some manufacturers, like Diamond make some dog food with fillers, some without. Diamond is one of the least expensive of the healthy brands, about $28 for a large bag. I believe it's well worth the small extra cost to keep my pets healthy and extend their lives. Besides, tiny poodles don't eat much, so the cost factor is minimal in the long run. Plus, keeping them healthy and out of the vet's office can end up saving you a small fortune.
I don't feed my dogs after 6 P.M. So they won't have to relieve themselves during the night. They hate to mess where they sleep, so make sure they have ample opportunity to do their business before bed time and when you first wake up in the morning.
FOOD RELATED ISSUES
I keep little containers of Caesar's iPuppy food in the pantry for rare occasions when a puppy isn't eating (or on rarer occasions as a special meal.) It doesn't have all the greatest ingredients, but they love it, and I think once in a blue moon it's O.K. to feed to them.
I also keep some Nutri-stat or Nutri-cal on hand in case the tiny dogs become hypoglycemic (low blood sugar.) It's very common in small breeds if they don't eat or are stessed out (see below) and they can actually go into shock, fall over, and their gums turn greyish. It's very scary, but can typically be quickly corrected on the rare chance it happens. Take a little dab of Nutri-stat on your finger and put it on the roof of their mouth. It's very much the same as a candy to a diabetic. You could also use a tiny amount of honey or Karo syrup. You should see very fast improvement, within a few minutes. If not, call your vet immediately.
Any changes in their diet should be done gradually. Start adding a little of the new food to their regular food, then a little more each day for about a week until they are finally eating the new food only. It is critical for you to know if your small dog isn't eating. If they get diarrhea (nerves can do that) you should keep an eye on their butt to make sure that there is no dried "dingle-berries" blocking the passage.
For tiny dogs, it's a good idea to put just a few kibbles in the kennel with them just in case they need to eat in the middle of the night. You don't want them to get hypoglycemia, which can make them very sick or even kill them. It is a serious matter.
THIS IS IMPORTANT: One of our favorite foods, chocolate, is poison to dogs, and anti-freeze is a deadly poison. Anti-freeze smells and tastes good to them, but even the tiniest amount will kill them.
It's best to store containers of anti-freeze out of their reach because dogs have been known to chew through the plastic container. Beware of anti-freeze (green) overflow in the garage from your car's radiator as well.
I hope you will never give them bones unless they are too big to break off into pieces. It is bad for them
to swallow pieces of bone, especially with sharp ends that could get stuck in their throat or digestive tract. I never give my pups "treats" like Pupperonies or such, or any rawhides except plain ones that are so large they can't chew and swallow them, like the big rolled up ones.
FOLLOWING IS AN E-MAIL I RECEIVED FROM KATHY S. THAT I WANTED TO SHARE WITH EVERYONE:
0NE THING I THOUGHT OF- PEOPLE THAT TAKE MEDICINE SHOULD KNOW HOW MANY PILLS THEY ARE SUPPOSE TO BE TAKING AND COUNT THEM WHEN THEY PUT THEM IN THEIR MOUTH. HOW HORRIFIED I WAS WHEN MY HUBBY'S DAD DROPPED HIS BLOOD PRESSURE MEDICINE ON THE FLOOR WITHOUT KNOWING IT. LUCKY I FOUND IT.
Thanks, Kathy! Poppy G.
STRESS
Poodles have a hard time handling stress caused by things like being separated from you, too much or too rough play time. It can cause vomiting and diarrhea, or they might not eat. You want your puppy to eat within 6 hours of getting it home for the first time. You can try some of the foods mentioned above and you can put a very, very small amount of honey in their drinking water for the first couple of weeks, which you will want to keep clean and change at least once a day.
TRAINING
PLEASE be completely patient with your new puppy no matter how they act or what they do. After all, they have only been on planet earth a few weeks. Poodles are the smartest of all breeds and learn quickly through kindness. Scolding and hitting will ruin their disposition permanently.
My pups are almost always pee-pad trained by the time you get them. But nervousness about being in a new home can sometimes cause "accidents." The best way to handle an accident is to take them to the pee-pad, put them on it and say “paper” in a calm and loving voice. They are naturally anxious to please, and it won't take long at all for them to understand exactly what you want them to do.
They do tend to go to the bathroom more when they are upset, so you can expect that the first few days.
Don't ever punish them by rubbing their nose in it or by putting them in their kennel, because you want that to be a “safe” zone for them. Many dogs sleep in their kennels and are very happy doing so.
My normal training treat is a teeny-weeny dab of smooth peanut butter they can lick off my finger while I praise them "good bath!" Making your care pleasant will just teach them to cooperate more each time.
When they do go on the “paper” (pee-pad) I don't give them a treat, but I always say “good paper” or when they come when I call them, “good come” or if they stay when I tell them I say “good stay.” It has the opposite effect of scolding. It improves their disposition, helps them trust you more and makes them want to please you more in order to receive your approval.
If I tell a dog to “stay” in my chair and they don't, For example, I'll say “If you don't stay, you have to go outside.” If they jump down again, I lovingly pick them up and put them in a different area away from me. You'll be amazed how fast they learn, especially if you talk to them. The experts say the average dog knows about 200 words. Poodles are way smarter than most dogs and studies have shown that they can understand over 1,000 words. I believe it!
BARKING
Sometimes dogs bark and it can be annoying, but please don't lose your temper. Different types of barks signal different things, and eventually you will be able to tell the difference. If you're on the phone and your dog is just being spoiled “Yap-yap – come pick me up” just say “hush!” (or whatever word you choose, but consistency is important in training). If I know for sure a dog is just acting spoiled, like at night when I lock them in the kennel and they still want me to hold them, I'll say in a firm voice "Fido"
(Using their name first gets their attention and teaches them who they are) "I said HUSH and I mean it!” That works very well with this clever breed. On some occassions I'll just close the door between their room and the den where I'm watching T.V. (I normally keep it open except for dinner or prayer time.
RESTRAINING / WALKING
Use a harness, never a leash or choker on the neck. The cartilage rings in a tiny poodle's throat are very fragile and you don't want to damage them or cause the trachea to collapse. In fact, it's best if you keep your hands away from their throat as much as possible.
Tiny poodles tend to be very timid and are definitely inside dogs. Please don't buy one of my poodles unless you will be keeping it inside. At my place I have a doggy door to part of my deck that is completely screened, fenced and has bird netting so it's completely protected. They enjoy laying in the sun and can poop on the pad out there instead of inside, which makes it easier to clean (I just hose it down with a pressure nozzle.)
Note: I sell the pet pads, which are the best and cheapest I've ever seen. They are about 2 x 3, are lined so they don't leak through, you can use both sides and you can hose them down and/or put them in the washer, depending on how bad they are messed on, and hang them out to dry.
GROOMING
Normal grooming on a regular basis helps a pet reach a point eventually where they just accept it. They trust you not to hurt them and know they have no choice, so they behave. (“Good baby!” - peanut butter.) This is one area where you must be kindly firm, because if they can pull away or get you to stop they will always do that, or try. Sometimes I'll take a dog's face in my hands, make them look me in the eye and very calmly say something like “We're going to do this, so you may as well relax until I'm done.” This might be hard to believe, but they get it and it's worked for me many times over the years. I suspect it's because dogs read our “vibes” and don't filter things through their brain too much like we do.
You should try not to bathe your dog more than once every couple of weeks. And when you do, be very careful not to get water in their ears. This can cause chronic problems, pain and deafness. I learned to put a dog down on the floor right after a bath so that they will shake themselves off and clear the ears in doing so.
If the ear is infected it gets a foul aroma and needs attention, probably ear drops. You can put some ear cleaning solution in the ear and then gently massage it. Remember that a dog's ear canal is very deep and it's best not to stick anything in it. If you can see by your dog's reaction that it's sore, you might want to take a trip to the vet.
Just a word about vets:
I think vets are wonderful, I even have toyed with the idea of becoming one. But I don't recommend going to the vet unless you absolutely must. You never know when YOU or your puppy will bring back a case of parvo, or something similar. I've had numerous pet owners tell me that they think their dog got parvo at the vets office, and I'm sure they are right.
Ear hairs need to be pulled, but only from the inner ear. I lay my dogs on my lap and holding their ear back and in strong light I use tweezers to pull the hair a few strands at a time. The puppies don't like it, of course, no dog would, but with a quick yank it doesn't seem to hurt them. You might need help with this one because they tend to try and pull away. If you accidentally grab part of the ear with the tweezers, which is very easy to do, it does hurt them.
TRAVEL
Poodles are usually good travelers, calm and quiet if you have a comfortable and secure carrying case. From my experience, most people assume it's a purse or bag you are carrying and won't even know your puppy is with you. (Please use a seat belt on their carrier in the car.) Airlines now sell pet tickets that allow you to carry them on board and place them under your seat.
I have a collar and tag for each of my dogs, because I would be more than heart-broken if one of them got lost. And I fear if someone found them, I'd never see them again because they're so darn cute and valuable. There's a case for a transponder under your puppy's skin. They aren't expensive, and vets & shelters normally scan for them if a pet is brought in.
ILLNESS
You will want to keep your dog current on it's shots and wormers. One of the most overlooked but important preventatives is for heartworms. It's carried by mosquitos, doesn't show up for months, and then can ruin or kill your dog, as can the vet's treatments, which are very expensive, lengthy and time consuming.
Parvo is another major problem if your dog gets it, especially puppies. There are numerous strains, highly contageous and very deadly. It's carried through cat's and people (who don't get it, just carry it) birds (who do get it) and transmitted typically through fluids: excrement, vomit (sorry, unpleasant!) water bowls, etc. It's a virus that spreads prolifically on everyone and everything that comes into contact with it.
If you take a puppy with Parvo to the vet, it's a simple and inexpensive test to see if they have it. If so, they will probably want to keep your pet, put it on an I.V. and fluids 24/7, and there's about an 85% chance the dog will die anyway (which the vet will probably tell you) leaving you only with a bill for thousands of dollars. They also tend to de-worm the dog at the same time, which actually lessens the chance of recovery.
You can read more about Parvo on my website at this link: > PARVO information <
I do carry a homeopathic remedy that has shown about an 85 % SUCCESS rate. It is very inexpensive, and most vets don't know about it, or have no experience with it. But you must get it into your pet as soon as possible to increase their odds of surviving. There are some stop-gap measures, so if your pet gets parvo, please call me right away. I've been a dealer for this cure and a full line of natural products for several years, and it's helped save a lot of dogs. And it's very inexpensive- Parvaid.
I also keep an immunity booster on hand that can be used along with the parvo cure, or can be used anytime one of my dogs seems like it might be sick or getting sick. It's all natural and there's nothing in it that can hurt them. I sell it too, also inexpensive- Vibactra Plus.
Another natural product I sell and use is Pet Pain Formula. If your dog is crying, or shaking or injured or you suspect is in pain, this inexpensive formula works great and is not harmful like some human remedies you might try and give them.
I carry a full line of these products and can overnight them to you if necessary. See my “Natural Pet Meds” page or follow this link: www.ParvoCure.com
BREEDING
Most people have no interest in breeding, but if you do, consider that it is a greater responsibility. You don't want to propagate dogs with health issues or genetic weaknesses. Only dogs from healthy lines and excellent stock should be bred. Also, there are different types of AKC registrations, and they are the "gold" standard for good reasons, which I won't get into here. My dogs are sold with "limited" registration unless otherwise agreed.
Well, I've tried to hit the most important points here based on my own experience. Thanks for taking the time to read all this and I wish you and your pet(s) the best now and in the future. If you ever have any questions or need advice I hope you will call me. You see, I not only love dogs, I love people who love dogs!
Poppy G.
Content copyright . Poppy G. All rights reserved.
